Temari Tuesday 5 – Cosmo 6, 56 (i)
July 8, 2010
I’m squeezing in some temari-making during the mid-year university student break. Here’s another straight-forward C10 which won’t take weeks and weeks to finish. And ideal if you’ve always looked longingly at those giant complex temari incorporating interlocked bands of basketweave but were too afraid to tackle. Apologies for the lack of photos at this time; once my camera and PC get over their current tiff and start talking to each other again, I’ll post photos.
Source: Cosmo Book 6, Atarashii Temari/New Temari. ISBN 483770784x. Photo p.1 (lower); pattern pp.56-57.
Model: 31cm white mari; silver jiwari C10; perle cotton #5 stitching threads in Orange, Black, Lime Green, Forest Green, Blue Grey, Maroon, Yellow, Steel Blue, in bands of three rows each.
Step 1. Having stitched the C10 division lines in place, work out standard cm distances at thirds out from each hexagon pole position and measure accurately using pins to start the first row of stitching in each hexagon. Structurally, the pattern calls for five hexagons out from each central point. You’ll notice the fifth and last interlocks with the centre of the neighbouring hexagon. You might notice too that the third is easy to do, since you stitch between jiwari junctions already laid down. Start with Orange in the small hexagons at the centre of each large hexagon. Because these end up standing out visually in the final product, stitch as accurate a hexagon as possible, re-stitching where necessary to get things right.
Step 2. The pattern shows an additional four hexagons in ever increasing size. You can do this for one ‘face’ and progress to the others, as the published pattern seems to suggest. Or after you’ve done each of the smallest orange ones, you can start with the largest hexagons, the ones in black. You’ll notice they interlock around the small central orange hexagons, so it might be easier to do all the small oranges first then all the interlocking large black ones before proceeding to the other smaller hexagons in other colours.
Step 3. Proceed with remaining colours, creating a basketweave pattern as you go. Whether you weave over or under will determine how closely you follow the photograph. It’s not the end of the world if you make a mistake – given the relatively small size of the mari and the fact each band is only three rows wide means they can be quickly re-stitched if necessary.
Hints and Conclusions:
* consider using a beige or off-white for the background mari colour, anything other than a bright white. This is a standard piece of advice, commonly shared among all temari-makers. Leave bright white for stitching thread, but shy away from it when preparing mari.
* bright lolly colours may seem to be called for, but where possible go for more subtle tertiary versions of the spectrum colours – the overall visual effect will be less “trivial”.
* it will quickly dawn on you how important even gaps between each band of three rows. It’s worth re-stitching individual bands because uneven ones will always “stick out” for you visually and personally. Others may not notice any irregularities, but as the maker you always will. Or you may wish to try and disguise this by increasing the rows from three to four, creating a tighter weave look, closer to an ‘all-over’ effect. More thread of course and it will take longer, but worth experimenting.